Singapore: sums it up |
Getting to Singapore:
bus to JB, state bus over the border, go to Queen Street bus
terminal, walk to hostel.
Yeah, if only things
were that simple.
The border crossing was
one from hell. First of all, I got the wrong bus – though for a few
cents more than the state bus it wasn't too bad.
Then we got to the
Malaysian exit post. Stamped out. OK, let's go get the bus again.
It was a bus station
affair downstairs – and as I got down the stairs, I saw my bus
leaving. Without me.
I had no idea where the
company's buses left from, so I just stood there – waiting for a
bus to appear. Which was at the far end of the station. So I ran,
backpack and all – and he wasn't going to wait for me.
At least I knew where
the bus left from.
An hour later, I wasn't
so sure.
So I just went and
found any other bus heading in the right direction. “Kranji MRT”
meant I could take the MRT to Little India and the hostel, so I went
for it – and it was cheaper than going all the way to Larkin. And
it wasn't Woodlands, which was the border post MRT station.
Ah, got it. Singapore
border post crossed, chewing gum smuggled in (they only cared about
cigarettes) and a fairly friendly welcome, and I looked for a bus
from the same company.
I know how this works
now.
Except Kranji MRT was
actually further away than Woodlands, and required an hour's journey
stood up in a silent carriage. I couldn't even chew gum to pass the
time.
From fair-enough to ridiculous |
At least it's
straightforward enough, even if when I left Little India station it
was tipping down and my flip flops, weathered by the Thai border post
experience, really didn't approve of the slippery pavements.
So I settled in,
avoided complaining about $5 beers, and enjoyed some “Australian
steak with gravy” affair that cost me far too much. But it was
blooming good. And the hostel was called the “Prince of Wales”,
complete with requisite Welsh flag. I approved.
And my first full day
was a Sunday, and I inadvertently went to church.
And stayed for a bit
too!
Then the monsoon rains
decided to say hello, and it was time to see Singapore in all its
dull and dreary glory – skyscrapers, skyscrapers and more grey.
Even beneath the
skyscrapers and dull environs of the city-state, there were still
some elements of Singaporean history: the waterfront shophouses that
would have looked a lot better if it hadn't have been tipping down
with rain.
And there was a Russian
family there, the father filming while the mother read out of the
guidebook.
Yeah, who watches these
videos?
By the looks on their faces, the poor children are forced to.
And I made friends with
some locals, who took this amazing photo of me.
By this point, I needed
my aircon fix again, so it was time to jump on the MRT to Chinatown,
and enjoy some hawker food for the first time in a while. 5$ meals?
Yes please! So I avoided the more touristic parts for a bit, and saw
more shopfronts.
Then eventually I had
to hit the Tourist Central which is Singapore's Chinatown, Inc, and
of course the tooth relic temple.
Yeah, I can't see any
tooth in there.
And there was a Hindu
temple in Chinatown. Yeah, makes sense.
Eventually I had to go
into some backstreets and hide from the usual tourist mecca that has
so annoyed me so far, and I found an actual Taoist temple. Taoist
temples are the only ones that seem to welcome you in with shoes on.
Staying in tune with nature, this is, apparently.
OK,
time for more modern stuff. Singapore is that kind of place, where I
can just swap and change my mind as I wish.
Apparently
people take boat trips round shopping centres.
I
know this because the MRT deposits you in a shopping centre. The
“only shopping mall with a UN membership” thing rings far too
true.
Ah, they look EXACTLY THE SAME from this angle |
Then
of course I decided that I was having severe travel ADHD, and needed
a mix of the two. Clarke Quay will do.
But
by now, yesterday's border antics had got the most of me and I needed
to sleep, before a bit of an evening photo session.
Oh
yeah, enough of that. NEED MORE SKYSCRAPERS.
No, that's just overpriced clothing |
And
in the end, hardly any of the lights were on. Ah, Sunday night.
You
know what? I ran around Singapore a lot, deciding I wanted to see
something new. But Singapore provides: for a small city-state, it has
a lot to offer, and with the MRT you can engage in travel ADHD to
your heart's extent.
You
can also give the place a good wander, even if the humidity of the
monsoon season made me want to dive into the nearest shopping mall
every now and then. And there are plenty of them too.
There's
even these two gems in, appropriately, the Arab Street district:
So
much culture crammed into one place: Singapore has history and a
whole lot of diversity.
So
much that I took the MRT over to Orchard Road – and they actually
pronounce “Somerset station” with a Somerset accent.
Sum-errrrrrr-set |
But
of course the monsoon rains had started, and so I had to hide
inside...... shopping centres? Plenty of them here.
But
getting in is always easier than getting out: there's a surprise.
After
a couple of never-ending escalators, I found some sort of roof
garden, and about 3 people in total. Wonder why that is.
What a view though |
You
know what: I like Singapore. There's something about it, in the
diversity, in the crazyness, in the nutty nature of the ruling
classes, that just shines through, and makes the place slightly
awesome.
Even
if it is a little too expensive.
At
least you only need a couple of days to explore, and it's a fairly
standard stopover – so a lot of people will end up there at some
point, and half of them will probably hate it – but there you go.
Cities are a bit hit and miss like that.
Indeed |
A
fine way to end one hell of a trip: Australia's up next!
I'll
blog a bit about my experiences there, even if I'm working quite a
bit – and I've got a fair bit of miscellany (read: mind-vomit) to
share (read: bore you with). So keep your eyes peeled for it!
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